How often should I clean my car paint

DEGREASERS/TAR/BUG REMOVERS: These types of products are normally solvents designed to dissolve surface contaminants such as road tar or bugs. There are two broad classifications of solvents, petroleum distillates and citrus based. The quality citrus products tend to be gentler on the paint. Any degreaser/tar/bug remover will remove wax. So after you have rid your car of the remains of Billy bee, you will have to rewax the area. (What is the last thing that goes through a bee's mind as he slams into your windshield at 60 mph? ......His stinger.) Be aware that many of the popular over the counter tar removers are based on kerosene and may cause long-term damage to paint.
     How often should you clean the paint? The correct answer is based upon several factors. If your car is a "garage queen" and only sees the light of day once a week or so, then once a year is usually often enough. If it is a daily driver, and sits out in the elements day after day, then twice maybe three times a year may be required. Your paint will tell you when it needs to be cleaned. It may scream at the top of its little lungs or it may be more subtle and simply lose its luster and look dull (you know your paint better than I do). If the finish is subjected to acid rain, and the effects of highly acidic bird offerings, then you may have to clean specific areas of the finish a little more often. If someone tells you to clean the paint each time you wax, then they are either trying to sell you another paint job or have an excess of cleaner they are trying to unload.
     Power tools and fine finishes, in my humble opinion, do not mix. There is nothing that a power buffer can do, that you cannot do by hand. The advantage of power is speed. This also applies to getting yourself into trouble. The edges of your body panels and raised/creased areas of the sheet metal have the thinnest layer of paint. When the body is painted, the liquid paint will tend to flow away from these raised areas. A power buffer will concentrate its energy on the thin paint of these high points. This is another way of saying hello to your primer or as the professionals say, "burning an edge". If you must use a power buffer, use only closed cell foam pads and use one pad for each product. Do not use lambs wool type of pads, as they are swirl marks waiting to happen. Most importantly, use only a cleaner/glaze/polish type product that is specifically formulated for use with a power buffer. The frictional heat of a buffer will cause some product's abrasives to flocculate or clump together and make your hood look like a newly plowed cornfield. Most people do not appreciate this look.


Bruce Drago car Detailing

There are some folks who love their cars more than their loved ones. So if you count yourself to be one such car enthusiast and lover, I bet you would love to treat your baby with a luxury car wash. After all, your four-wheeled baby needs some pampering too. So send her to her very own spa, As long as there have been cars on the road, there have been professional detailers.  The profession dates back to the days of horse-drawn carriages and professional carriage drivers.  In the 1940s, professional detailing shifted from services rendered to elite motorcar owners to car dealerships, where previously owned cars were professionally detailed for resale.  Until the 1970s, most car dealerships had a staff of professional detailers.  Economic changes forced many dealerships to trim their detailing staff and contract the service out to the lowest bidder.  This spawned the booming car detailing and carwash business we have today.  

Several car ownership factors play into making car detailing a viable and growing business.  First, the price of new cars continues to rise at an average of $1,000 per year.  This is causing many car owners to realize that maintaining their car is a wise investment.   Second, people are keeping their cars longer.  According to R. L. Polk, a Detroit-based research company, Americans are keeping their cars for more than 7.5 years, as opposed to 5.5 years in 1970.   This is largely due to the cost of buying a new car and the change in U.S. tax laws, which no longer allow car loan interest deductions.  Finally, modern cars are far more reliable and durable.  In addition to simple mechanical improvements, the paint, trim and interior finishes on new cars are far superior to the previous generation's.  With the longer periods of ownership, car owners are realizing that they must keep their cars' appearance maintained.

Detail a car part 1

To start with, I used Chopps excellent detailing write up as my basis. IN fact, using his method I got some awesome results.However, my intention was to create a method that would allow for ‘professional” type results without actually having to be a professional.

I will say, right up front, that my method will not give dramatically better results that Chopps method.And, since mine is more expensive and slightly more time consuming, this may not be for everyone.My recommendation would be to use this system if you are attempting to restore paint that has been neglected.If your paint is already pretty good, then this is probably overkill.

Speaking of overkill…I picked up a fair amount of this on Meguiar’s’ website.However, those guys are generally professionals and have an absurd amount of time, money, and experience.I tied to find a system that sort of split the difference between Chopps system and the system a professional might use.

Hardware:
•About 15-20 VERY CLEAN towels.
oEither micro fiber or 100% cotton terry towels.I prefer the micro fiber for some things and the cotton for others.Just use what seems best to you.
•Rotary buffer/polisher. 
o Professionals will tell you that you need to spend $200+ to get a good one.But, since I’m not using it every day, I didn’t see any reason to spend the money.I bought one on eBay for about $50 shipped.I saw one the other day at Harbor Freight for $34.99The primary concern is that it be a standard polisher (not an angle grinder or some other direct drive power tool) and that it be variable speed (preferably the range will include 1000-2500 rpm range).
•10” Orbital/Dual Action buffer
oJust get a cheapy… nothing special needed.Wal-Mart, Pep boys, wherever, you can find these things for about $15
•4-6 10” terry bonnets for orbital buffer
oYou can find these for $5 for a 6 pack at Wal-Mart
•Rotary buffer backing plate and foam pads
oThe backing plate and pads should be bought together since they need to work together.3M, Schlegel, Meguiar’s, and Lake Country all make some nice ones.Availability locally may be an issue, so just get what you can locally.
oBacking plate should be the “hook and loop” (that’s Velcro for those of you who don’t care about patent violations) design that threads on to the 5/8” post of the rotary.The Velcro will allow you to quickly and easily switch from one pad to another. This part will cost you around $20 depending on what/where you get it.
oI am using 4 separate levels of foam pad.You could probably do it with 2, depending on how deep you want to go with the compound/polish.I use a heavy cut, medium cut, polishing, and finishing pad.4 separate levels, 4 separate colors.I spent about $12 per pad…just make sure you get something good.
•Two good sized buckets.
•A hose with variable spray nozzle.
•California Water blade
•A couple of those cheap, old fashioned plastic Ketchup/Mustard/condiment bottles you can buy at the dollar store.Its easier to disperse the compound and polishing liquids out of one of these than the bottle they come in.
•Chamois or synthetic Chamois like the Meguiar’s Water Magnet towels
•A good mechanics stool with wheels (preferably the short kind) will make your life easier while doing the sides.I found mine at Harbor Freight for $12!
•A tire brush.This should be a couple of dollars at the most
•A wheel brush.I would recommend getting something good for this.I bought a Meguiar’s Gold Class brush for $11.If you spent some loot on your wheels, make sure they stay looking nice!
•A shop vac style vacuum.One of those handy little car vacs is fine…just so long as it sucks.
•An extension cord.Something long enough to get to every side of your car comfortably, but not so long that you will spend the entire day tripping over the slack.25’ works nicely in my garage.

I will say right up front that I like the Meguiar’s products.Chopp recommended them, and I am used to using them, so I am inclined to recommend them as well.However, there are other good brands.3M, Mothers, Turtle Wax, and a few others all make some nice products that compare well with the software listed below.As always, choose what you prefer.I didn’t give prices on any of the software.Partly because I don’t remember (I didn’t buy it all at once…I sort picked it up a piece at a time), and partly because I don’t really want to add up how much I have spent.

Software:
•Dawn dishwashing soap.
•Meguiar’s Gold Class Car Shampoo
•Meguiar’s #84 cleaner/polisher/compound for Rotary buffers
•Meguiar’s #2 cleaner polish
•Meguiar’s Gold Class Liquid car wax
•Meguiar’s NXT liquid car wax
•Meguiar’s Deep Crystal #3 Yellow Carnauba Wax
•Meguiar’s Quick Detailer
•Meguiars #7 Professional Show Car Glaze
•Lexol leather cleaner
•Lexol Leather treatment
•Vinylex
•Aerosol Glass cleaner – don’t get the cheap stuff.Get something good!
•Meguiar’s NXT Tire Cleaner
•Meguiar’s Hot Rims All wheel cleaner
•Armor All Detailers Advantage Foaming Tire Treatment
•Rain X
•Simple Green

Remove car scratches safely

Bruce Drago 

How to Safely Remove Fine Scratches from Your Car's Paint by Hand

Micro-fine, hairline scratches can often be removed by hand using a non-abrasive paint cleaner or swirl remover polish like Meguiar's Scratch X tm. It safely and effectively removes below surface defects like fine scratches and bonded contaminants from paint surfaces, while enhancing the paint's gloss. Unlike many of today’s overly abrasive scratch removing formulas, will not leave more scratches than it removes. The product is ideal for solving isolated paint problems and can even be used to revive a vehicle’s entire paint finish. If it is possible to remove a blemish or scratch by hand, ScratchX is the perfect solution.

The most common below surface defects, many of which can be removed by hand are listed below:

1. Random, isolated scratches
2. Cobweb-effect
3. Buffer swirls
4. Oxidation
5. Pore imbedding stains
6. Chemical etching
7. Acid rain spots
8. Etching from bird droppings

ScratchX is not a wipe-on, wipe-off product like a wax; it's more of a wipe on, and gently work it into the finish product. You will need a clean, foam applicator pad to work the product into the finish and a good quality terry cloth towel, likeMeguiar's ultra plus, or a microfiber towel, like Meguiar's Microfiber, for wipe off to make certain that your effort provides the desired result. It's important to note that using premium quality applicators and towels insures that you do not inflict any additional scratches back into the paint surface.

Bruce Drago Car Detailing